Laptop Screen Finder & Part Number Decoder

How to find your panel without opening the laptop

Windows can read the screen's built-in ID (called EDID). Press the Windows key, type PowerShell, open it, paste this command and press Enter:

Get-CimInstance -Namespace root\wmi -ClassName WmiMonitorID | ForEach-Object {
  [PSCustomObject]@{
    Maker       = -join [char[]]($_.ManufacturerName | Where-Object { $_ -ne 0 })
    ProductCode = -join [char[]]($_.ProductCodeID   | Where-Object { $_ -ne 0 })
    Name        = -join [char[]]($_.UserFriendlyName | Where-Object { $_ -ne 0 })
  }
}

The short form Get-CimInstance -Namespace root\wmi -ClassName WmiMonitorID also works, but it shows each value as a list of numbers (character codes). The longer command above turns those numbers into text. How to read the result:

• • Maker — a three-letter ID for the panel maker (see the table below).
• • ProductCode — a short code (often 4 characters, like 08DF) that identifies the exact panel model inside that maker. It is not the full part number, but together with the maker it narrows the panel down.
• • Name — on many laptops this is blank for the built-in screen. When it is filled, it sometimes shows the part number itself (for example NV156FHM-N42) — type that into the decoder above.
• • If you see two or more results, one is an external monitor. The built-in screen is the one whose maker is a panel maker like BOE, AUO, LGD or CMN.

Reading the label with the bezel off

The label on the back of the panel is the surest way to match a screen. Here is how to reach it safely:

1. Shut the laptop down fully (not sleep), unplug the charger and, if you can, disconnect the battery inside.
2. Remove the rubber covers or screws at the bottom corners of the screen bezel, if your model has them.
3. Gently pry the bezel off with a plastic tool or guitar pick, starting at the bottom. Never use a metal screwdriver — it cracks the glass and scratches the panel.
4. Remove the panel screws (or peel the tape tabs on slim panels) and tilt the panel forward onto a soft cloth on the keyboard. Do not pull — the cable is still attached.
5. Read the sticker on the back and take a clear photo. Note where the connector sits (left, middle or right) and whether the panel has metal screw tabs.

Safety: a cracked panel can have sharp glass edges — wear gloves. Do not press on the panel face. Touch screens and many thin laptops have the glass glued to the lid; if your bezel will not come off, stop and get a technician to do it — you can book a fitting at our repair bench.

30-pin vs 40-pin: how to tell

• • Count the pins on the socket at the back of the panel, or the contacts on the cable plug. A phone camera photo, zoomed in, makes this easy.
• • Measure the width as a quick check: a 30-pin eDP socket is noticeably narrower than a 40-pin one (both use 0.5 mm pin spacing, so 40-pin is about a third wider).
• • eDP vs LVDS: laptops from roughly 2013 onward use eDP. Older laptops often use 40-pin LVDS. A 40-pin LVDS panel and a 40-pin eDP panel look alike but are not interchangeable.
• • Touch and high refresh: touch screens, 120 Hz+ gaming screens and QHD/4K screens are usually 40-pin eDP.
• • Connector side: the socket must be on the same side as your laptop's cable, or the cable will not reach.

Want to know the cost before you start? See our screen replacement cost guide. Buying for a shop? See laptop LCD wholesale.